Alan Wong is one of Hawaii’s most popular chefs, but the service at his bustling eatery, Alan Wong’s Restaurant, has often suffered because of his popularity.
Long waits in front of the elevator have angered many. Still, worshipful foodies come from all over the state, drawn by the food — which is brilliant — and a menu that is irresistible.
The 90-seat room has a glassed-in terrace and open kitchen. Sensitive lighting and curly koa wall panels accent an unobtrusively pleasing environment — casual, but not too.
The menu’s cutting-edge offerings sizzle with the Asian flavors of lemongrass, sweet-and-sour, garlic, and wasabi, deftly melded with the fresh seafood and produce of the islands. The California roll is a triumph, made with salmon roe, wasabi, and Kona lobster instead of rice — served warm. We love the opihi shooters, day-boat scallops, and fresh-fish preparations. But don’t get attached to any one item, as the menu changes daily.
Wong whips his staff into high-level shape then lets them show off their stuff – lately chef de cuisine Wade Ueoka has been making waves at the monthly Next Generation dinners. And we’ll never get tired of his clean interpretations of Island favorites using locally grown ingredients, such as ginger-crusted onaga (with organic Hamakua mushrooms of course) and kurobuta pork chop with a five-spice cider vinegar glaze.
Yes, Alan Wong’s keeps yielding new, innovative things to taste, but maybe it’s Hawaii’s perennial favorite because at the helm is a man who embodies the word pono.
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